Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak (Imja Tse) one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal for climbing on Himalayas . The combination of Everest base camp trek and Island Peak climbing is probably the best trip in Nepal adored by adventure seekers. From Dingboche the mountain is seen as an island in a sea of ice. Island peak not only provides an enjoyable climb but also provides some of the most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Everest region. Seen from the summit the giant mountains, Nuptse (7,879m), Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east, Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add more charm in climbing Island Peak. For many mountaineers climbing Island Peak marks the beginning of climbing on Himalayas to prepare for a big Himalaya expedition in Nepal in the later years. For some mountaineers the peak stands for the purpose of acclimatization before heading to bigger mountain climbing. Trekking to Kaalapatthar or Everest base camp is best suited for acclimatization before proceeding to the climbing on Island Peak .The normal route for climbing Island Peak is South East Flank & South-West Ridge Normally, the base camp is set at Pareshaya Gyab (5,087m), between Imja Tse and the lateral moraine of the Imja Glacier. Proper care should be taken to avoid the possible avalanche in the event of heavy snow fall. For some people reaching to the summit from the base camp is a day activity. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine style camping at high camp which adds the joy of climbing and also helps a safe ascent.
Day 01: Arrival day (1,300m/4,264 ft)
Upon arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuwan International Airport, we will greet you and assist you to the Hotel. We meet later on that day or the next day to take you to our head office to brief you on your upcoming Island Peak climbing trip with us. At that time we will introduce you to your trekking guide and climbing Sherpa. If your flight arrives on time, we will take you to one of the most popular local restaurants with delicious Nepalese food, cultural music and ethnic dance. This will give you a glimpse into the different ethnic groups of the country. If you arrive late in the evening we can do this the next day.
Day 02: Kathmandu valley sightseeing and trip preparation (1,300m/4,264 ft)
After breakfast, you will begin a city tour of Kathmandu where you will see the main attractions of the valley. On this tour you will visit the Boudhnath Stupa, Pashupatinath temple, Swyambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple), and Kathmandu Durbar Square (the old palace). After finishing the city tour, we will meet again to check your clothing and trekking and climbing equipments (sleeping bag, down jacket and trekking boots). This evening will be spent in Kathmandu.
Or an option we would take you to the rock climbing spot for short training as a climbing preparation near by hill station of Kathmandu. If you are beginner this is highly suggested.
Day 03: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2,652m/8,700ft)
We drive to airport early in the morning as per flight departure time to take our flight to lukla (2,800m). It is scenic flight about 35 minutes which gives you a perfect site of mountain range. Once you are at Lukla airport, meet our other trekking member there and breakfast at the lodge. By the time prepare luggage for the Porters then walking starts through the stone paved trails towards Bhaisekharka. It is few up downs to get in to Phakding passing through plenty of prayer Rocks (Mani in local language). After getting in to the lodge at Phakding, fresh up and short walk to the village or hike up to the Gompa to get acclimatize. Stay overnight at the lodge.
Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m/11,283ft)
After hot breakfast at your lodge, the trail leads towards the suspension bridge and easy uphill to the Monju from where Sagarmath National Park begins. After short National Park formalities, drop down to the river, cross another suspension bridge and continue walk to the high Hilary Bridge at the bottom of the hill. After the bridge the trail leads uphill to the Namche Bazzar. On the way you will have great view of Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Kusum Khangru and more with beautiful valley. Stay overnight at the Lodge.
Day 05: Acclimatize day at Namche
This is a mandatory acclimatization day that allows your body to adjust to the effects of altitude. Instead of staying in the lodge, weexplore the Museum, visit Khumjung village and Khongde village where you can enjoy the views of Mt. Everest and surroundings peaks with Sherpa culture. You can also visit Thame which is old Sherpa village as an option. Remaining of the day you can explore Namche Bazzar where you can use Internet, visit National Park head office, Museum and monastery as per your interest and time. Stay overnight at Namche.
Day 06: Trek to Tengboche (3,867m/12684ft)
After breakfast at the lodge at Namche, the trail leads short up towards ridge and easy way to Kyamjuma then descends slightly to Dudhkoshi at 3250m. After that a steep ascent will bring you to the famous Tengboche monastery, with its picturesque background of Ama Dablam, Mt. Everest and other peaks. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 07: Trek to Dingboche (4,358m/14,295 ft)
At the beginning hike half an hour down to riverside though lush forest to cross the river and gradual climb up to Pangboche which is popular Sherpa settlement. Then the trail continue leads uphill towards north of the valley which has lovely views of Mt. Amadablam, Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse and more peaks around. Once you get to the ridge the trail drops down to the valley at Pheriche for overnight.
Day 08: Acclimatized day
It is second mandatory acclimatization day that allows your body to adjust to the effects of altitude. Instead of staying in the lodge, we recommend you to walk which allows the body to adjust to the rarified air more quickly. We hike up to the ridge which is an amazing walk through the ridge and has wonderful scenery of Mountains and peaks with valleys.
Day 09: Trek Chhukung( 4,730m/15,518ft)- 3 to 4 hrs
Today you walk towards east of Chukung valley. It is rocky trail today and has beautiful views of mountains and peaks. Once you get in to Chukung at the lodge meet with our Climbing guide and at the same time check climbing gears and equipments. Our guide will brief you about the further expedition towards our targeted point. You can also ask questions to our guide which relates climbing and our guide also tell you his climbing story to different peaks and mounts. Stay overnight at Chhukung.
Day 10: Trek to Island Peak Base camp (5,200m/17,060ft), 3-4 hours
After breakfast at the lodge, follow our climbing team towards south part then turn east to the main of the valley. Continue walk to the huge rock and cross Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines to get in to the wide valley where we can set the tent. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 11: Island Peak High Camp (5,600m/18,372ft), 2-3 hours
After hot breakfast at the camp, climb up the hill where you will see that the slope narrows and the path enter a steep rock channel nearby where you will stop for overnight at camp. At the mean time our guide will fix crampons on your climbing boots and re-check the entire climbing gears and personal equipment once again for better safety. If required, you may learn last minute climbing technique with our climbing Sherpa at this stage. If possible, you will be also taken for the ice/rock climbing nearby but subject to the availability and depends up on weather. Stay overnight at High Camp.
Day 12: Island Peak summit (6,189m/20,305ft) & return back to Chhukung, 8-10 hours
At veryearly morning (also depends on the weather condition we may have to wait for another day so be prepare for this) your expedition starts. This is not difficult but there are several short rock steps to climb before you emerge on the right side of the gully. The route then follows a ridgeline, which leads to an exhilarating and exposed traverse onto the snout of the summit glacier. You will need to rope up for the glacier as it contains several crevasses but it leads without difficulty, to a 100m(330ft) snow and ice slope (40-45 Degree) on which the guides will fix a rope. From the top of this slope, 3 rope lengths along a sharp summit ridge leads to the top. After enjoying the summit views you will descend all the way to high camp and you’re your gears to get down to Chhukung for overnight.
Day 13: Trek to Khumjung (3,780m/12,401ft)
After breakfast the lodge, follow the valley towards Pangboche and short climb to Tengboche through the forest of Rhododendron and pine. After that the trail drops steep down to the valley to cross the suspension bridge and continue up to Khumjung for overnight.
Day 14: Trek to Namche (3,440m/11,283ft), 4-5 hrs
After short climb to the ridge the trail drops down through the ridge where you can see the village with its U angle settlement. Evening explore around the town and overnight at the lodge.
Day 15: Trek to Lukla (2,652m/8,700ft)
After breakfast at the lodge, the trail drops downhill through the pine forest till to the bridge and continue walk to the Monju. Again some formalities have to be done at the check post of the National park at Monju then continue walk to the Phakding for the lunch. After that your last day of the trek continue to the Lukla. Stay overnight at the lodge.
Day 16: Fly to Kathmandu (1,300m/4,264 ft)
Normally flights are always in the morning due to the weather. So guide will do all airport formalities by the time you can have a breakfast at the lodge. Your luggage will get in to the airport already with the help of our sherpas and porters. Once guide get news about your flight arrival at Lukla airport, will call you to watch how the small aircraft get lands in to the small airstrip. After quick photograph, get in to the airport and straight away get in to the plane to fly out to Kathmandu. Once you are at the airport at Kathmandu, guide will assist to get in to your hotel by private vehicle.
Day 17: Final departure.
Today is the last day of the trip with us. If you would like to extend your holiday with us, we will help you if you require otherwise we will assist you to the airport as per your flight departure time. If your flight is late evening, you can do last minute shopping or manage your photos of the trip then final departure from the airport.
- Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on B/B basis;
- All Necessary transportation by private vehicle.
- Entrance fee for Sightseeing spot in Kathmandu
- 3 meals a day (Breakfasts, Lunch and Dinners with tea or coffee) during the trek and climbing period.
- Full board Accommodation of Lodges, Guesthouses in Twin Sharing Bases during the trek and tent will be available during the climbing period
- All camping equipment in Base camp;
- Flight Ticket from Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu for member and Staff
- Trekking Permit (National Park entry fee)
- TIMS card (Trekking Information Management System) Permit
- Climbing permit for Mera Peak
- All Necessary staff during the trekking and climbing period With Experience Government Climbing license holder Guide and Porter.
- Facility of Food, accommodation, salary, insurance, equipment and medicine for all trekking staff.
- Group medical supplies (First Aid medical kit will be available)
- One tent will be available in the Base camp for on twin sharing basis;
- High altitude food and all climbing crew will be available above base camp.
- Necessary fixed and dynamic ropes will be available during climbing period
- necessary kitchen crew will be available in base camp
- Emergency Oxygen and mask regulator will be provided
- All necessary paper works, office Service charge and Government Taxes
Cost does not Includes:
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
- Emergency rescue evacuation if required.
- Personal accident insurance or Helicopter rescue.
- Airfare international flights
- Nepal entry visa fee, Visa issuance is easy at the arrival
- Any kind of Alcoholic, hot and cold drinks, hot shower.
- Alcoholic beverages, Mineral water, laundry, phone calls, internets.
- Personal climbing equipment
- All kind of Personal Expencess
- Ice fall fees Garbage Deposit (Sharing with other member) if applicable.
- Wake talkies & Filming permit.
- Any others expenses which are not mentioned in Itinerary
- Tips, gifts, souvenirs.
# Trekking boot,
# Climbing gloves,
# Main rope,
# Down Sleeping Bag,
# Down Jacket, Gore-Tex jacket,
# Trouser,
# Climbing boots,
# ICE-axe with Ice hammer,
# Rucksack, Crampon,
# Stick, Harness,
# Get up (Boot clover),
# Snow Glass, ICE Screws, snow Shavel,
# Carbine Lock & unlock,
# Head Lights,
# Wind Proof Jacket & trouser, Down Trouser, Wind Proof Trouser,
# Water Bottle,
# Woolen Gloves, Bag Cover,
# Wind mask for climbing,
# Socks for climbing,
# Eight figure, Knife & Personal Medicine,
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